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Tuesday, 8 April 2008
When Life Hands you Lemons . . . Errr Oranges
"Defeat should never be a source of discouragement, but rather a fresh stimulus." ~South
Yes, it's Tuesday again, and we all know what that means. It's Tuesdays With Dorie day!!! The one day a week that I join in with a multitude of other keen bakers who are baking their way through Dorie Greenspan's cookery book, "From My Home to Yours." Each week we bake another tempting and taste bud tingling delight!
This week, Mary of Starting From Scratch has chosen . . . . The Most Extraordinary French Lemon Cream Tart. Now . . . my Todd is not a lover of lemon anything (I know??? He's nuts!!!) , and so I opted to make the alternative recipe, which was a Fresh Orange Cream Tart.
I would so love to be able to present you with a successfully completed challenge this week, but I have to say up front, I am really not sure if this ended up being a success for me or a failure. I'll just have to let you decide!
I love Dorie's method of rubbing the sugar and fruit zest together. The end result is such a lovely smelling mixture that I could just sit all day and huff it, but having a tart to bake means I could not linger . . . I had work to do!!!
I decided early on that I was going to put my own twist on the recipe and make a number of individual tarts instead of a whole tart, and my little tarts would going to be different, kind of like mille feuille's except orange ones, and in pretty flower shapes no less, not ordinary at all.
There was a method to my madness and that is . . . I have no luck with sweet pastries at all. It always shrinks for me. I have tried everything and it always comes out looking abysmal. I thought that at least if I started off with flat pastry there would be nowhere else for it to go! I sprinkled some Demerara sugar onto the tops of half of my pastry flowers and cut some of it into moon slivers for the garnish and sprinkled sugar on those as well, and they baked up beautifully. Pastry . . . done.
Next came the filling. I was prepared for this to be somewhat difficult, after having read about some of the problems some of the ladies were having on the Tuesdays With Dorie site. It seemed that quite a few of them had problems getting the cream mixture up to 180*F on their thermometers and that it was taking quite a bit longer than the recipe's stated "10 minutes" to do so. I have to say mine was no exception. Ten minutes of whisking feel more like Twenty, and I am a very patient person, but mine never did come up to 180*F and at the end of what seemed like an endless fifteen minutes and when my arm finally protested and felt like it was going to fall off, I finally decided I had had enough, and continued on with the rest of the recipe. I'm not sure if this was the problem or if my gelatin was old (it was rather . . . I had meant to go out and buy fresh earlier in the week but totally forgot . . . insert sheepish, rather embarassed grin here) but my curd, or cream or whatever you wish to call it never did thicken up to the point where it was going to be suitable for filling a tart, even after an overnight stay in the refrigerator!
What to do . . . what to do . . .
Now, I have always been the type of person, if life hands me lemons . . . I immediately start making lemonade! (Or in this case Orangeade!) Because once again, I had left this to the last minute, (I really need to stop doing this) I did not have time to make the cream again so I had to quickly think of something that I could do with what I had instead. That's when the inspiration hit me and I decided to whip up some double cream and fold the orange cream into it. It still was not as solid as I would have liked, but it was quite passable. I then layered the cream between my layers of pastry along with a few tinned mandarine orange segments that I had lovingly drained and patted dry with kitchen toweling. I thought it looked rather lovely when I had finished, even if it didn't exactly match the image I had had in my head when I had started the challenge.
It was rather tasty . . . even if I don't say so myself, and Todd snuffled it back in double time, enjoying every mouthful. So, was this a failure for me????
I don't really know . . . it didn't quite feel like one, however it didn't exactly feel like a success either. I'll have to try this again, sometime when I have more time and see if I can't make it come out the way it was supposed to . . . or maybe not . . . I rather liked it the way it was! (Next week we're doing marshmallows!)
*Fresh Orange Cream Tart*
For the orange filling:
1 cup sugar
grated zest of 3 oranges
grated zest of 1 lemon
4 large eggs
scant 3/4 cup of fresh blood orange juice or Valencia orange juice
3 TBS fresh lemon juice
1 1/4 tsp unflavoured gelatin
1 TBS cold water
2 3/4 stick (11 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon size pieces
at cool room temperature
1 9 inch tart shell (round or square)
3 orange segments, for decoration
1/3 cup of quince or apple jelly mixed with 1/2 tsp of water for glazing
Getting ready: Have an insant read thermometer, a strainer and a blender (first choice) or food processor at hand. Bring a few inches of water to a simmer in a saucepan.
Put the sugar and orange and lemon zest in a large heatproof bowl that can be set over the pan of simmering water. Off the heat, rub the sugar and the zests together between your fingertips until the sugar is moist, grainy and very aromatic. Whisk in the eggs, followed by the orange and lemon juices.
Set the bowl over the pan and start stirring with the whisk as soon as the mixture feels tepid to the touch. You want to cook the cream until it reaches 180*F. As you whisk - you must whisk constantly to keep the eggs from scrambling - you'll see that the cream will start out light and foamy, then the bubbles will get bigger and then, as it gets closer to 180*F, it will start to thicken and the whisk will leave tracks. Heads up at this point - the tracks mean the cream is almost ready. Don't stop whisking or checking the temperature, andhave patience - depending on how much heat you're giving the cream, getting to temp can take as long as 10 minutes.
As soon as it reaches 180*F, remove the cream from the heat and strain it into the container of the blender, or food processor, discard the zest.
Soften the gelatin in the cold water, then dissolve it by heating it for 15 seconds in a microwave oven ( or do this in a saucepan over extremely low heat). Add the gelatin to the filling and pluse once just to blend, then let the filling cool to 140*F, about ten minutes.
Turn teh blender to high (or turn on the processor) and, with the machine going, add teh butter about 5 pieces at a time. Scrape down the sides of the container as needed as you incorporate the butter. Once the butter is in, keep the machine going - to get the perfect, light, airy texure , you must continue to blend the cream for another 3 minutes. If your machine protests and gets a bit too hot, work to 1 minute intervals, giving the machine a little rest in between beats.
Pour the cream into a container, press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. (The cream can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to 2 months; thaw overnight in the fridge.)
When you are ready to construct the tart, whisk the cream vigorously to loosen it. Spread teh cream evenly in the crust. Arrange the orange segments in the centre of the tart and prepare the glaze: bring the jelly and water to the boil. Use a pastry brush or pastry feather to lightly spread the jelly over the orange segments and cream. Serve now or refrigerate the tart until needed.
*Sweet Tart Dough*
1 ½ cups all purpose flour
½ cup confectioners’ sugar
¼ tsp salt
1 stick plus 1 tablespoon (9 T) very cold (or frozen) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk
Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse a couple of times to combine. Scatter the pieces of butter over the dry ingredients and pulse until the butter is coarsely cut in- you should have some pieces the size of oatmeal fakes and others the size of peas. Stir the yolk, just to break it up, and add it a little at a time, pulsing after each addition. When the egg is in, process in long pulses- about 10 seconds each- until the dough, which will look granular soon after the egg is added, forms clumps and curds. Just before you reach this stage, the sound of the machine working the dough will change- heads up. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and, very lightly and sparingly, knead the dough just to incorporate and dry ingredients that might have escaped mixing.
To press the dough into the pan: butter a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Press the dough evenly over the bottom and up the sides of the pan, using all but one little piece of dough, which you should save in the refrigerator to patch any cracks after the crust is baked. Don’t be too heavy handed- press the crust in so that the edges of the pieces cling to one another, but not so hard that the crust loses its crumbly texture. Freeze the crust for at least 30 minutes, preferable longer, before baking.
To partially or fully bake the crust: center a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees F.
Butter the shiny side of aluminum foil and fit the foil, buttered side down, against the crust. (since you froze it, you can bake it without weights). Put the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake the crust for 25 minutes. Carefully remove the foil. If the crust has puffed, carefully press it down with the back of a spoon. For partially baked crust, patch the crust if necessary, then transfer the crust to a cooling rack. To fully bake the crust, bake for another 8 minutes or so, or until it is firm and golden brown. Transfer pan to a rack and cool the crust to room temperature before filling.
I think you did an excellent job of improvising!
ReplyDeleteYour looks more appetising than the 'real' thing! I may have to make your instead! (Posting late this week due to sick child and 2 wedding cake to complete for Friday! Argh!)
ReplyDeleteOh, that looks really tasty, much better than the suggested assembling. Great work!
ReplyDeleteUlrike from Küchenlatein
My aol im name is startide21. I'll get MSN tonight. :) I've added you to my aim list!
ReplyDeleteBrilliant! I love what you did! Great job!
ReplyDeleteAs always you've done a great job of those Marie!
ReplyDeleteMarie, you really did think on your feet there. I would have probably just given up and thrown it all in the bin, feeling bad about the waste of money, time and food. The result looks delicious even if it wasn't what you'd envisaged.
ReplyDeletewhat a beautiful creation....that looks so delicious I want to take a fork to my computer screen and gobble it up! great job!
ReplyDeleteSuch a cute idea with the flowers! And when you don't give up on things, in my book, that's a success! :)
ReplyDeleteWow, I dunno about how it tasted, but it looks divine!!
ReplyDeleteLooks great but I'm with you. Give me lemons!
ReplyDeleteYou did an awesome job - it looks scrumptious!
ReplyDeleteHow lovely! You sure know how to turn on a dime! Loved your improvisation--and, of course it must be delicious.
ReplyDeleteYour idea of using mille feuille's in pretty flower shapes is a great one! The orange color looks amazing.
ReplyDeleteGreat improv on the tart! It sounds awesome! :)
ReplyDeleteGreat improv on the tart! It sounds awesome! :)
ReplyDeleteI think it was a great job! It looks very tasty. I'm going to have to try the orange tart soon.
ReplyDeleteMay have to delay MSN...I'm having computer difficulties and my byte monkey Ben won't be around to solve them tonight. I'll look for you on AOL!
ReplyDeletelooks great. you make me want to go in the kitchen right now and make that orange cream.
ReplyDeleteThose tarts are absolutely beautiful!
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely not a failure! I think your outcome is phenomenal!
ReplyDeleteSuccess! Beautiful, gorgeous, drop me one in the mail. ;)
ReplyDeleteWhat fabulous comeback! I would most likely have cried, pouted, poured a glass of wine and given up, good job!
ReplyDeleteGreat way to think on your feet! It looks delicious!
ReplyDeleteYour creation is absolutely lovely! And what a resourceful way to save your orange curd. I'm mightily impressed.
ReplyDeleteYours looks really yummy. I love the way you made little tart flowers.
ReplyDeleteWOW! Can anyone say divine???
ReplyDeleteThank you for stopping by my blog today and sharing a bit of your story. I look forward to visiting back to your blog.
Nice job of pulling it out of a tail spin!
ReplyDeleteI like how you improvised!
ReplyDeletethat looks really delish, and great thinking at the last minute! i love the fresh slices.
ReplyDeleteYour orange tart looks so yummy, I'll have to try that next time. So glad you persevered!
ReplyDeleteIn my humble opinion, the tarts are a huge success - maybe not what you initially intended but the success lies in the resourcefulness you showed in taking something that was a potential failure and turning it into a huge success. How can that be bad?
ReplyDeleteI think your improvisation was brilliant - and beautiful!
ReplyDeletethat looks fantastic!!!! Lovely and summery in contrast to your icy outside photos!
ReplyDeleteThose orange tarts look so good. I have the same problems with tart shells. They always seem to shrink on me... Good call to add the double cream to the orange cream. I imagine that it could only make it taste better. :)
ReplyDeleteSounds like a success to me, even if it didn't turn out the way you planned. I'm like you, though, it always bothers me when something doesn't work out the way I wanted it to, even if I'm the only one who knows. =)
ReplyDeleteIt looks delicious and like an awful lot of work. I am amazed at people like you who come up with such wonderful things. Someday that will be me. But for now I will have to settle for not quite so from scratch desserts.
ReplyDeleteAdorable little orange dessert you created. Great job!
ReplyDeleteClara @ I♥food4thought
Well, if I created anything that looked half so good I'd consider it a huge success!
ReplyDeleteI'm sure it was yummy!
xo
Di
I love the quote you begin with.
ReplyDeleteWonderful!
You made due with what you had and came up with something you both enjoyed. I think that is a roaring success! Fantastic job!
ReplyDeleteWow. Success! Absolutely a success! You may not have the result you expected when you started, but if your composed tart tastes HALF as good as it looks (I'm ready to lick my monitor here) you can't possibly call it a failure.
ReplyDeleteWow, I love the whimsy structure of these. Beautiful.
ReplyDeleteThat's such a beautiful dessert! I'd say it's totally a success!
ReplyDeleteThe flowers with the cream look adorable. Glad you made the best of it all!
ReplyDeletei wouldn't call that a failure at all! it looks beautiful! i had trouble getting it up to temp but i guess dorie says the key is really 165F - did yours ever get that high? i may have over cooked mine as i cooked it sooooo long, hoping to get to 180. it seemed much thicker than everyone else's...but it was still so good! :) great job w/the challenge!
ReplyDeleteIncredibly stunning presentation! Great job of making things work.
ReplyDeleteYour tart looked great! Orange is an interesting twist!:)
ReplyDelete